Although they are easier to install than central air conditioning systems, mini splits are not "plug 'n play" like window units or space heaters. You definitely will need a professional installer because mini splits require a dedicated electrical line to run into the building's electrical panel.
Here's what you should know about mini split electrical requirements in order to ensure a worry-free system for years to come.
Depending on the size and model, mini splits have specific power requirements. Some small 9k - 12k BTU systems may require a 110-volt service, but most will require 220 volts or more. Since these systems need to be hardwired into the electrical service panel, be sure the breaker panel is properly sized and can handle the additional voltage.
We recommend that you consult with a professional installer to help with the electrical requirements of your system and ensure the work is done to code, maintaining the warranty of your mini split system.
When shopping for connecting wire, be sure to get quality wire that is the proper gauge. Also, look for connecting wire that is rated for sun exposure and "UL-listed." This signifies that the product has passed safety tests performed by Underwriters Laboratories.
Common wire sizes include 16, 14, 10, 8, 6, and 2-gauge wire. The thickness of the wire determines the amount of current that it can handle safely.
The higher a wire's gauge, the thinner it is and the less current it can handle. Similarly, lower gauge wire is thicker and can handle more current. For example, #2 wire can handle 100 amps, while #16 wire can only handle 13 amps. Make sure your installer confirms the wire sizing because other factors, like length, will also affect the selection.
The table below lists common household items by the amount of power they use with the appropriate size wire.
| Wire Use | Rated Ampacity | Wire Gauge |
|---|---|---|
| Extension Cords | 13 Amps | 16 Gauge |
| Light Fixtures, Lamps, Lighting Runs | 15 Amps | 14 Gauge |
| Receptacles, 110-volt Air Conditioners, Sump Pumps, Kitchen Appliances | 20 Amps | 12 Gauge |
| Electric Clothes Dryers, 220-volt Window Air Conditioners, Built-in Ovens, Electric Water Heaters | 30 Amps | 10 Gauge |
| Electric Stoves | 45 Amps | 8 Gauge |
| Electric Furnaces, Large Electric Heaters | 60 Amps | 6 Gauge |
| Electric Furnaces, Large Electric Water Heaters, Sub Panels | 80 Amps | 4 Gauge |
| Service Panels, Sub Panels | 100 Amps | 2 Gauge |
The following make up the electrical side of a mini split system.
Typically, connecting cable is run through the conduit in accordance with local codes. Most systems use a 14 AWG 4-conductor stranded cable, also written as: 14/4.
A disconnect switch is required by code to be installed near the outdoor unit and allows for a technician to shut off power to the system when performing any service or repairs.
A non-fused disconnect switch is preferred over fused. One reason is that the breaker in your service panel already provides the built-in protection in place of a fuse.
Another is that circuit breakers can be reset after they are tripped, while fuses must be replaced. Fuses can also corrode in the elements - rendering the system unsafe. Finally, fuses can be hard to find, and most people aren't comfortable replacing them.
Surges can be caused by lightning or irregularities in your power delivery and could damage your mini split system's electrical components.
For such events, you will want the peace of mind that comes with a surge protector.
Rather than scrambling to replace your mini split system out of pocket after a damaging surge, use an HVAC device to provide your heating and cooling equipment with both exceptional protection and additional warranty coverage.
Don't remain at the mercy of Mother Nature or your electrical company. Install a surge protector and enjoy unparalleled peace of mind.